Done!

Grabbed another day off as our people will be only just arriving at the coast and we don't want to arrive too soon before they have a chance to get themselves settled.
Went for a look around St Maximin then and back to the site for lunch and into the pool.

Slept Monday night without the fly sheet to keep a bit cooler and then up and away.
Bought still warm bread at the first village and ate it with jam by the village fountain. We'd bought stickies for breakfast already so we saved those for lunch.
Passed the original stopping town of Rocbaron and climbed past and over the col. We detoured to Cuers to take in a scenic road and added a few kms on to the day.
Stopped at Pierrefeu on the recommendation of a couple of Dutch girls at the last site. Unfortunately we didn't share their opinion. The site was a bit run down with poorish facilities and fairly dear at 23€.
The pool was ok and the bar did food so we had sausages and chips which we took back to the plot eat. That and a Pastis for 12€ for both of us, which was good.
We decided to ride again the next day and do the final leg rather than wait for Thursday as we originally planned.
We got away by 8.30 rode into Pierrefeu to buy breakfast and lunch and then back past the site to hit the route.

The main road was a gentle descent to the coast and the coastal cycle track, but that seemed to be a bit dull and maybe busy. So we decided to finish with a proper ride so took a route that would take us over the Maures hills. We didn't go over the highest bit but it was a good climb up and over to join the coast at La Londe.
From there a surprisingly hilly cycle path took us to the last bit of road to our destination.
Had fun trying to get a photo of the two of us at the gates, with me running across the road to set the self timer between cars. I should have used the remote.
Booked onto the site and got our security bracelets, found our friends and family and popped some corks.
So a couple of weeks or so here then on to Narbonne.
I'll let this all settle for a bit then try to get a bit of perspective about the trip so far, but it's clear that it has been worthwhile in so many ways.

And we're not done yet.

Last up, downhill from here. Honest.

Longest stay of the journey so far. Arrived Wednesday and left on Sunday.

Met and chatted to a couple of English teachers on a walking holiday who gave us some info about the area which we made good use of and then a couple of very experienced cycle tourists from the Black Country (another teacher) on their way from Geneva to Marseilles. They had beautiful hand made custom titanium bikes with all the extras and intend to cycle the world in a couple of years. Interesting to share experiences with them.
Walked on Thursday, combined cycle tour and shopping on Friday and a vineyard self guided tour on Saturday, all very, very pleasant.
Forecast for temperatures in the 100's for Sunday and quite a way to go. So an early start.
Up at 6 and away by 7.30, no tea just a swig of orange juice and a small pain au choc.
62km and 560m of climbing. Probably didn't reach 100 deg but it was well into the 90's and it made the last couple of hours fairly hard work.
Crossed a col south of Rians where there was a ceremony about to start. The road was closed but the dignitary waved us through to an ovation from the crowd as we passed the summit.
Turned out to be a liberation day celebration which was in full swing as we reached the town.
Arrived in St Maximin la Ste Baume at 1pm.
I was very overheated so we quickly grabbed some food, Sue's hunger outranked my heat, and then into the pool. Felt much better after.
The nights are very hot and sticky, I would sleep outside except we are still both suffering from nasty insect bites. It seems you don't get immune to them.

Just one stop and two days riding to go if everything stays on plan Although our original route has been very much altered over the past few weeks our destination towns have stayed pretty much as planned.

Site Full

Left Apt as soon as the bread arrived and set off into the Luberon hills. Cool and pleasant and not too steep, or we're getting used to climbing.
Stopped after 50 mins for breakfast and to ring ahead to campsites. All were either complet or didn't answer. At this point we decided that moving on a public holiday wasn't such a great idea.
With no choice but to carry on, we did.
A spectacular road runs between Apt and Aix with no alternative route for the first 20k. Traffic though wasn't to bad except for one idiotic Belgian who decided to overtake us round a corner on a narrow bit of road whilst passing an oncoming car. You may have heard me shout from home.
Resolved eventually to head for one of the sites we had no reply from and then either keep going till we found space or look for somewhere to wild camp for the night.
This meant us finally abandoning going to Aix, but could save us a day's riding and I don't think we fancied struggling through a city in this heqt..
Reached Tour d'Aigues at 12.25 to be greeted by the friendliest warden of a super site...and just in time to sprint back up hill for cold drinks.
We'll rest up here at 10€ a night till the weekend when sites should start to be a little easier to get on. Then head for St Maximin.

Aptitude Test

I don't want to gloat or anything, but we're sat in a Bistro in Saignon, a very pretty Provençal hill top village, between salad and ice-cream with the sun trying to find the gaps in the shade to fry my head.
We left Pernes after visiting the cycle museum and market and left with even fonder feelings towards the town.
The climb over the Col de Murs was as hard as expected but we were encouraged by a multitude of French Sunday cyclists sharing the climb.

It did feel as if all my muscles had been replaced with jelly. I think we allowed ourselves to get a bit dehydrated on the ride from St Martin.
Rang ahead and secured a place at the municipal in Apt.
Arrived at lunchtime after a hard and hot 42k. I could barely stay awake let alone put the tent up.
7€ a night with a great atmosphere (very like music festival complete with strolling minstrels ) with loads of tourers both cycle and walkers. Turns out we're on a cycle route that runs E towards Sisteron.
Because of our general state of knackerdness and the cheapness of the site we decided to stay here a couple of days.
We now have some English neighbours, two of whom are on a climbing holiday and the other is on a two week bike tour of the area on her own. We also chatted to a French lad from Marseille who has given advice about our route to Narbonne. "Don't go to Marseille" he said "There's nothing there for tourists".
So we're here in Saignon, still waiting for pudding, but who's rushing? Tomorrow we start to cross the Luberon mountains, we'll probably give Aix a miss and head towards Pertuis depending on camp sites.
2 hours later, ice-cream and coffee arrive. Just remains now to roll back down the very big hill we climbed to get here.

Only we decided to make a loop, so we carried on up and over through small villages, harvested lavender fields, and views towards what may or may not have been Mont Blanc (right direction, big and white but surely too far. ) then down and back along the cycle track. So much for a day off the bikes.

One too many (early) Mornings

And a thousand miles behind.
Fabulous stay at St Martin. Lovely little town. Moules/frites for dinner, for the first time this trip, by the river at a lively bar with live lounge jazz.

Up early to walk into Aigueze across the river. Bought pastries for breakfast and sat and ate them on the cliff tops.
Reached the village to find there was another bloody market going on. In France it seems you're only ever 500m from a market at any time.
Armed with olives, fougasse, and rose we retired to lunch.
After some sleeping and a mild dust up with the campsite warden ( me, being assertive in French, another first ) we went to the municipal beach and had a cooling swim in the Ardeche.
Away at 9 on Friday morning. Breakfast on the banks of the Rhone.
A long hot, windy but mostly flat 82 km saw us to Pernes les Fontaines, all day riding in the shadow of Ventoux. So strange to be somewhere familiar and if anything even better in the summer. Pleased we rang ahead as the site was showing complet signs when we arrived.
1000 miles now have passed under our wheels. Strangely the further we have come the less remarkable it feels to us. But still, bloody hell, a thousand miles!
Col de Murs tomorrow, or the day after. Shortest, but not the easiest way to Apt. But more interesting than the main road and hopefully quieter.
Suggested a quick trip up Ventoux as we're so close (without bags). I don't think a lady should speak like that, I didn't know she knew words like that.

So, pool, shower, Intermarche, tent up, food, write this and zzzz.

Oh it seems that there's a market here in the morning.

Early Start

Awake at 6 and rolled out of the site at 7.40.
A few flat kms and then into the biggest climb of the day. Being early didn't make it any less steep (10% for most of the way) but it did mean not having to worry about the traffic and it was quite cool.
Breakfast at the belvedere at the top of the climb.
It was quite emotional at the top of the second climb when Mt Ventoux came into sight for the first time. When I was on the the summit in March to be able to do this tour was still a dream.
The rest of the gorge was a series of ups and downs and fairly uneventful (although Sue claimed I tried to lose her on one section. I didn't know her chain had come off.) but it was very scenic.
We chatted to a young German who was aiming to reach Madrid in less than 4 weeks from home. 150k a day but he said he had no time to look at anything. I think I prefer our way, but we have the luxury of time.
We decided to stop short of our original target as St Martin looked attractive and the campsite seemed ok, had space( but full by 4 ) and wasn't too dear at 13.50€.
Ride was done by noon, 39k and 590m of climbing.
Bought cheese and melon from the market as it was closing and some wine from the boulangerie and then fell asleep...again.

The Madness of This Gorge

I didn't know there were so many canoes in the whole world.
We decided to stay another day after our patch of dirt was turned into a patch of mud by another storm yesterday morning.

Went for the day to Pont d'Arc and paid our 4€ to sit in the beach, on our chairs of course, look at the scenery and watch the world. The world consisted of crowds of other people filling every inch of the beach and of hundreds of canoes filling every inch of water. So much for a wild and free adventure. It's a shame as 30k away on the river Chassezac there was beautiful scenery and almost deserted water with just the occasional canoe, and underused hire companies.

Early start tomorrow to try get down the gorge before the heat and the stupidly busy traffic starts.
Despite the crowds and the iffy pitch it's been a really nice stay. We're not sure if we will be able to find cheaper campsites in the Vaucluse but we'll try as these prices are wrecking our budget.

Stormy Sunday

First big storms last night and into this morning. Cleared enough for us pack up and go.
Arrived at Vallon Pont d'Arc just around two. Very busy. Managed to find a patch of dirt for two days if we want at 23.50 a night, but in high season here with no booking it's ok. At least we have somewhere to sleep.
Having a wander around the town before we go back and put the tent up. More storms maybe tonight. Who needs to sleep?

Into the South

Two restful days at Naussac doing nothing much. Sat reading in the semi shade the creases on my stomach shielded from the sun, I now look like I've been griddled with white lines across my belly. It keeps people amused.

We picked up some emails from the solicitor about problems with the NHS part of the sale. Nothing we can do even if we were home. The money we're still owed looks a bit more distant though.
We also got a message from Sue's Mum to say her Dad was in hospital . We rang as soon as we found out and he's home and it's hopefully "just" an infection. It prompted a discussion about what we'd do if a serious situation developed. We decided we'd have to improvise that one.
We left not very early Friday morning bound for Les Vans. Really expecting a linking ride between two areas.
22km of gentle climb followed by 40km of down as we came off the Massif Centrale.
As we turned of the main road to begin the drop we entered a deep heavily wooded nearly deserted valley. We saw 3 cars in the first 20k and no walkers or bikes.
We went down slowly taking in the sights, sounds and smells. A cacophony of crickets, the aroma of warmed herbs and the greens, browns and blues of the Borne valley. This merged at Pied de Borne into a slightly busier but still quiet gorge. (begins with a "C" but I have no map and can't remember it's name.)
Saw our first roadside cactus ate lunch with our feet in the river and really felt there was no better way to spend a day.
Found the site at Les Vans easily although they seem to have forgotten to install toilets (well nowhere near enough) and the town and Super U is at the bottom of another kilometre hill. Oh well, small price to pay.
Sites here are now much busier and prices are creeping up. 17€ for a two star.
Tricky couple of days to come with finding sites and riding through the Ardeche gorge but today.....another market.

Back on Line, Still on Track

The Kindle running out of its monthly 3G allowance ( I didn't know there was one but it's 50mb) and lack of wifi means I'm now a few days behind.
Le Pre du Mars site was without a doubt the best in terms of "coolness" that we have stayed on so far.
The communal dinner arranged on Friday evening was intended to get people together and mixing. This was arranged by Eric the owner who qualifies to be described as interesting in a good way, mostly.
We ate with Danes, Dutch, Polish, French and us. A good evening finished off with a long discussion about cultural differences with Eric at the bar.
The next two says were spend relaxing in the sun. The storms never really arrived and it was very warm.
On Saturday evening after we had eaten we were invited for coffee at our Dutch neighbours. I have to apologise to Conny and Fons for drinking all their wine and coffee and eating all their lovely butter cake. Never invite hungry bike tourers for coffee if you want to still have food left.
Fons humbled my riding efforts with recounting his 5 times up Alpes d'Huez in one day for breast cancer charity accompanied on one ascent by his 12 year old son. Left at 1am just as all the campsite lights including the toilets went out.
Sunday the weather was even better so we lay around (again) swam in the Loire checked over the bikes and cooked with the Honeystove on the river bank.

Packed up Monday morning and said our goodbyes.
Conny and Fons, your children and Morris, if you do read this, thanks for a lovely few days and your help with charging batteries and blowing up tyres. We owe you cake and wine.
Monday's ride took us into Le Puy where we glimpsed the monuments but it was very busy so we went straight through. The road South out of the town took us up the steepest hill so far, at midday typically.
Reached Le Monastier sur Gazeille after just under 50k.
Nice site by a small etang. Lots of backpackers around as we were on the Robert Louis Stevenson trail. A donkey would have been useful as the campsite was down a long very steep hill. This was great going down but played on our minds as it meant the next riding day would start with a big climb before we even began the route and the next day was going to be the biggest climbing day of the whole trip.
We spend the evening eating, resting and deciding whether to stay a day or go. We decided eventually to go and get it over with.
Although Tuesday was going to be very hot the tent was saturated with condensation in the morning. Packed and set off by 9.
We were right to be worried about the climb back to the village. 100m of climbing in a kilometre. Sue had to push one small part, too steep with cold muscles. Looked round the town to recover before starting the ride

proper.
A hard day but through some of finest scenery so far. 3 big climbs and we crossed the Loire again, this time for the last time I think. Followed the D500 all the way to Pradelles where we stopped to look round the old town and then onto Langogne where we shopped.
Just for fun we then went up a steep hill then down a steep hill to the campsite reception at Naussac then up an almost unrideable hill up to the camp field. Do these people not think about people on bikes?
Tent up, off the to pool were we stayed reading in the evening sun till 8.30.
Sausages, salad, lentils and chocolate and a warm feeling of accomplishment. 50k and just under 1000m of climbing. We're now in the Ardeche.
We're both starting to feel that this is now less of a holiday and more of a different way of living. I suppose the good weather helps but we could just keep going and never stop.