Home; Time to Start Planning

Everything dried out nicely. In the end it was worth the extra 25€ to get warm and dry. We rode back in to Narbonne at 11am to be ready for the bus pickup at 2.45 pm.
A quick burger, frites and coffee helped to pass the time till the bus arrived a few minutes late at 3.00 pm.
I wasn't looking forwards to the ride home, coach travel has never been a favourite of mine but I was pleasantly surprised. It was very well organised and delivered us to our side of Northampton at 1.15 pm the next day.

Other than a sadly deceased bonsai, the house seems undamaged and life has carried on pretty well without us.
24 hours later and I'm browsing touring websites....this may not be a good sign for a contented winter.

I'm still sure we could reduce the weight of stuff we carried, but we did use everything and were prepared for pretty much anything that could be thrown at us, so that should see us well if we go further afield in the future.

After 3 months of eating like pigs and abandoning all our previous slow carb diet we have come back exactly the same weight as we left. Must be all that exercise, maybe it is good for you after all.

After the early problems with the Exped mat (now replaced) and the broken spoke we have had no other failures of any note, although the bikes are looking a bit rough around the edges, Unprotected exposure to rain, dust, sand and salt from the sea means that they need a little bit of loving care before they're pressed back into touring service again.

People keep asking if we would do it again, the answer has to be, most definitely yes. After all we need to get some more use out of all this gear we've now got to find some room for.

We travelled France end to end and lived the summer end to end. We missed the Olympics, Wiggins in the tour, Murray at Wimbledon, 2012, and the US open, and much more, but this was something we did rather than living through other people's achievements, however memorable they were.

Final tally.....over 2500km not counting many of the shorter shopping type trips, which I didn't record, 22000m of climbing over 170 hours of riding. Not too bad for a first go we think.

Oh, and I never bought a cassette tool after all.

Should have Waited for the Fat Lady

Went for lunch on Friday in Narbonne and found a traffic friendly route in.
Came back with time to partially pack and get organised. Still forecast to rain pretty much all day Saturday so wanted to be as ready as possible.
Saturday morning.....dry. Rode the 5k or so to the boulangerie as we were too late to order last night. Got back as dark clouds started to roll in and thunder began to rumble.
Sue put the tarp up to give us some shelter and finished just as the rain started.
It was gentle to start with but then it picked up just a bit. I was outside spilling water out of the tarp and Sue was inside looking after the inner tent.
The water level around us started to rise as water ran down from the higher parts of the site, and we weren't the lowest point!
I began to become concerned when firstly the saucepan started to float away followed by other tins and utensil.
At this point it became clear Sue was having problems of her own as the outer tent slowly submerged. Within moments the water had risen to start lapping over the inner tent skirt. We had left it late to get the sleeping bags into dry bags and only one got in reasonably dry.
As the inner tent started to fill up and the guy ropes started failing as the ground washed away around the pegs, the call went up to abandon tent.
We got as much stuff as possible into dry bags and into the bathroom.
We had to laugh, the last day, bloody hell.
Sue went off to reception to get warm and sort out a cabin.
I found our frying pan 100m away, and so far we still haven't found the big saucepan or the cutlery and some other bits. I'm going back out later when the water has gone down.
Sue's phone was submerged and she rescued her journal just in time.
So we're in a cabin with drying stuff everywhere waiting for the rain to stop.
It's supposed to be nice tomorrow.
Update...
Found the missing pan and most of the stuff. The pan was in a field at the far end of the site, and it's a big site.

End of the Road

No more routes to plan, no more browsing maps looking for hills to cross, we've arrived at Narbonne.
We're now sat in 4 star camping luxury, on a huge plot with our own bathroom and toilet, it's just like being at home.

It rained on Wednesday evening, but we spent the evening with a British couple who invited us to share shelter and drinks with them in their motor home. We drew the line at their invite to cook our tin of chilli in their van, but we did take it inside to eat, and they washed up for us. If Stan and Sheila ever read this, we feel very guilty.
Thursday came warm and sunny, the road we took to Narbonne was quiet and easy, at least until getting round the outskirts of the town itself which were a bit lethal.
We've checked out our collection point and now have to reorganise our bags and stuff. Then into Narbonne for a bit of sightseeing. Storms and rain forecast for tomorrow so we'll make the most of today.

Anyway Carcasonne is just down the road, and Spain is just over those hills over there and nobody would notice if we missed the bus, so I might just get those maps back out again.

No Way Out

Said goodbye to Enko (dog) and Balaruc and set off towards Beziers.
We expected a longish day as there are fewer open sites around now.
Passed through Sete and along the causeway to Agde. Miles of lovely beaches but not very pretty surroundings.
We couldn't escape Agde as every road led to a restricted D road. French towns down here are well equipped with cycle lanes, but there is little concession for travelling from town to town by bike.
After an hour of searching in the company of another couple of cyclists trying to get to the same place as us we found the Canal du Midi and took that.
It was unsurfaced and very bumpy (the towpath not the canal, that was quite smooth but a bit too wet) but at least we were going in the right direction.
We were helped to lift the bikes over some narrow gates by a Dutch couple past some arcane machinery to divert the river where it crossed the canal.
The path turned into Tarmac for the last 10k and took us into Beziers.
After being happily called a "mean fecker" by an Irish guy, for not letting Sue stay in a B&B, he directed us to the shops.
We picked the canal back up and into Columbiers where we found an open site.
Pitched next to a Canadien couple bike touring around most of Europe but using flying or train between locations.
75k today but it felt longer, it seems we are winding down along with the time.
Last night we felt that if the bus could go tomorrow we'd be on it, but today after a sleep, daft thoughts like that have gone away.
Woke to a much cooler morning, I think the summer may over now.
Don't know if we can be bothered to ride back to Beziers, even if it's only 7k so we might just explore locally.

Getting Closer

Saturday turned into a lovely warm day, so we walked into the village and through possibly the tattiest brocante sale yet. Then back to sit by the pool and read for an hour or so.
8.30 start and into Montpellier for 10.30. Rode around the city centre , a curious mix of traditional and austere modern but still with an unloved feel that seems to be typical of this corner of France.
It has been interesting to see along this coast especially Cassis and Marseille but it's not an area I would want to spend a lot of time in and the riding has been on the whole busier and less rewarding.
We're in Balaruc les Bains now, just North of Sete. After a bright start the wind has picked up again so we're debating whether to explore, shop or both.
I've just read an article about Marseille and the northern part we rode through. Apparently it's the poorest part of the poorest city in France. That makes sense. We saw a woman with a bucket and large spanner opening a fire hydrant to get water as we passed and thought that she must have no running water. It's that sort of sight that you wouldn't see from a car as the main road is on a flyover above the whole area. It' been very intense to see so much so closely.
I've worked out that even with our 3 weeks break at Domaine we will have ridden a loaded 50+km ride on average about every second day. If I'd thought this through in those terms after our practice around Rugby I'm not so sure I'd have been so keen to do this. So I'm very glad I didn't do the maths.

Petit Carmargue

A relatively easy flattish 63k today to Lansargues just past Lunel. We were both happy with this as our legs didn't want anything harder.
Started off fine but clouded over in the afternoon, but still warm.
We noticed that the towns around here are a little more run down with more litter than is usual in France. Even Arles looked as if times are not that great.
Got our confirmation of the pickup time in Narbonne, 2.45 a week on Sunday. So we have week to cover the last 130k or so. Still not sure if we'll be able to see Montpellier or not. Weather forecast for next week not so good so we may push on.

The Longest Day

As we started the climb out of La Couronne it was obvious that the wind was going to be a problem. The planned route was already around 70k and we very rarely avoid going over the planned mileage.
We had breakfast in Martigues and the set off towards Fos. The problems started when the only direct road was a restricted N road. We diverted around , got some advice from a old guy on a scooter who came over to us pondering our map, and still almost ended up on an autoroute. Quickly backing up the slipway we looked for another route. One dead end, more advice from a La Poste lady and we had a revised route which would get us to Arles from the east rather than the west.
We left the towns and headed onto the D5. 12k of open straight road with no shelter straight into the Mistral. Despite it being flat we could do no more than an unsteady walking pace.
After what seemed hours we turned west towards Arles.
Did some shopping at St Martin de la Crau and pushed on to the edge of Arles fortified by coca cola and bananas. The site was recommended by some English cyclists we met going the other way.
Whilst sorting out I found that I'd left my lock at the supermarket. I wasn't happy, but was far too tired to do anything about it.
6 and a half hours riding, 85+ kms and 600+m of climbing, plenty for one day.
Woke up at 8, after nearly 10 hours asleep, got up, dressed and went off to find my lock. A 26k round trip but it was still on the floor where I left it, so worthwhile.
Back for breakfast and the rest of the day.
It's much cooler today but at least the wind has dropped.

Out of the Var and into the Bouche

Deciding to go through Marseille on a Sunday paid an immediate dividend. The coast road from Cassis into the city was closed to traffic because of a bike race. We were allowed through though. So the first 20k were a car free pleasure, except for it being uphill until we reached the col. We came round the corner to see Marseille stretching around the bay.

Half of it's population seemed to be cycling or jogging up our road.
We soon found the other half were on the cycle track along Prado beach. Between brain dead pedestrians, rollerbladers, dogs, cyclists and several other random hazards it was about the most dangerous bit of riding we've done.
From there negotiating the old port with it's major roadworks, the traffic and the one way system was child's play. Marseille on a touring bike is not for the faint hearted.
We finally escaped the centre to find ourselves in the Northern outskirts were it felt like a little bit of Africa displaced into Europe, complete with a flea market and masses of people in a state of organised chaos.
I lost a brake block and fixed a quick repair on a roundabout.
We climbed up and out on what I thought would be the last major climb of the journey. We dropped down and had lunch on the shore of the Etang du Berre. Very peaceful after the noise of Marseille.
I had assumed wrongly, not for the first time, that the sites at Martigues would be in the town. Instead they were at La Couronne, 8kms away over the inevitable big hill. So much for the last climb, we have to back over that when we leave.
The site proved to be lovely with views over the sea, a terrific plot, a shop and at dusk the haunting sound of the engines and horns of the distant tankers from the refineries along the coast.
All in all one of our toughest days at 80kms and 700m of climbing. We were both very pleased to stop but happy with how the day had gone.

Site for Sore Eyes

Up at 6.15. Dark. We're really noticing the days shortening now and it's getting much cooler at either end of the day.
Packed and left just before 8.
Set off on the road towards Cassis (very busy), through Bandol and on to La Ciotat where we stopped after 20k or so for breakfast and to ring sites.
Sue started with Cassis, and this time they said if we were there by 12 we should be ok.
We pushed on and reached the site by 10.50, via some evil hill climbs. One climb out of La Ciotat looked like a definite downhill but our legs and the GPS confirmed it was a 4-6% climb. Really weird for the illusion to last for so long.
The site turned out to have loads of room and still had by late afternoon.
Walked down into the town, which is very smart and generally very attractive and decided that we'll go for a boat trip round the Callanques (weather permitting) rather than walk. We reckon we'll see more and our shoes are not really up to rough trekking.
Slogged back up the hill via Super U for chicken to go with site shop chips.

I'm still walking round with runny eyes. No lenses today so hopefully they'll be better tomorrow. Apparently it was a good look for me to be walking around crying with a blob of strawberry ice-cream stuck on my chin.

The Road to Narbonne

Decided against trying for too early a start on Wednesday, so got up after six and went for a swim lit by the rising sun. The colours of the sea and the sounds of the water were truly beautiful. It was very calm with no sign of the forecast winds.
Said our goodbyes and left the site at 9,40.
The bike track to Toulon was uneventful but once it ended in the city centre it became interesting. Very busy lots of traffic and no certain route through. By now the wind was picking up and blowing straight at us.
It took a good part of an hour to get through it and on the road to Sanary.
We stopped for lunch at Six Fours and watched the windsurfers battling the wind.
Rode into Sanary and got directions from the tourist information about the site and supermarkets.
Arrived at the site only to be turned away as they were full. Two myths went down then. No full sites in September and they will always find room if you're on bikes.
They directed us to their sister site a few kms away which was fine just a bit close to the autoroute.
It was quite late by then so we cooked the food we picked up in Sanary and called it a day.
72kms and a hard reintroduction to touring.
Thursday we made use of facilities and used the very nice pool, ate a Tagine in the restaurant and then headed into town.
Got back and asked if reception could ring ahead to Cassis to see if there was space there. The response was "complet every day" . If you get here before 10 there may be space but maybe not.
Went back to the maps but there are no obvious alternatives, there are surprisingly few campsites around this bit of coastline.
It's now getting very dark at 8 so as my eyes are very sore and tired (a day without lenses tomorrow) we decided to make an early start and to make it up as we go.

End of the Idyll

Idyll or Idle, both would work. Three weeks of doing very little but eating, drinking, swimming, with the occasional splash in the canoe and a couple of excursions on the bikes.
We're both expanding around the middle, but we're happy.
Today we've taken down the tent and are starting to get re-organised to get back on the road tomorrow. We are sleeping tonight in Grandma's caravan so that we can get away earlier, although the lure of a dawn swim may get the better of us.
I managed to flatten the Range Rover's battery inflating the bike tyres this morning as well as wrecking another inner tube. I think we are running with too low pressure much of the time and that is damaging the valve stems causing them to fail. Different pump needed next time. For the Silk Road, maybe!
Tomorrow will see us aiming for Sanary sur Mer some 60 km away, mostly on bike track but with a forecast of 30 km headwind it could be fun (especially after a 3 week break).
So sad to leave but happy to get back to the adventure.

Done!

Grabbed another day off as our people will be only just arriving at the coast and we don't want to arrive too soon before they have a chance to get themselves settled.
Went for a look around St Maximin then and back to the site for lunch and into the pool.

Slept Monday night without the fly sheet to keep a bit cooler and then up and away.
Bought still warm bread at the first village and ate it with jam by the village fountain. We'd bought stickies for breakfast already so we saved those for lunch.
Passed the original stopping town of Rocbaron and climbed past and over the col. We detoured to Cuers to take in a scenic road and added a few kms on to the day.
Stopped at Pierrefeu on the recommendation of a couple of Dutch girls at the last site. Unfortunately we didn't share their opinion. The site was a bit run down with poorish facilities and fairly dear at 23€.
The pool was ok and the bar did food so we had sausages and chips which we took back to the plot eat. That and a Pastis for 12€ for both of us, which was good.
We decided to ride again the next day and do the final leg rather than wait for Thursday as we originally planned.
We got away by 8.30 rode into Pierrefeu to buy breakfast and lunch and then back past the site to hit the route.

The main road was a gentle descent to the coast and the coastal cycle track, but that seemed to be a bit dull and maybe busy. So we decided to finish with a proper ride so took a route that would take us over the Maures hills. We didn't go over the highest bit but it was a good climb up and over to join the coast at La Londe.
From there a surprisingly hilly cycle path took us to the last bit of road to our destination.
Had fun trying to get a photo of the two of us at the gates, with me running across the road to set the self timer between cars. I should have used the remote.
Booked onto the site and got our security bracelets, found our friends and family and popped some corks.
So a couple of weeks or so here then on to Narbonne.
I'll let this all settle for a bit then try to get a bit of perspective about the trip so far, but it's clear that it has been worthwhile in so many ways.

And we're not done yet.

Last up, downhill from here. Honest.

Longest stay of the journey so far. Arrived Wednesday and left on Sunday.

Met and chatted to a couple of English teachers on a walking holiday who gave us some info about the area which we made good use of and then a couple of very experienced cycle tourists from the Black Country (another teacher) on their way from Geneva to Marseilles. They had beautiful hand made custom titanium bikes with all the extras and intend to cycle the world in a couple of years. Interesting to share experiences with them.
Walked on Thursday, combined cycle tour and shopping on Friday and a vineyard self guided tour on Saturday, all very, very pleasant.
Forecast for temperatures in the 100's for Sunday and quite a way to go. So an early start.
Up at 6 and away by 7.30, no tea just a swig of orange juice and a small pain au choc.
62km and 560m of climbing. Probably didn't reach 100 deg but it was well into the 90's and it made the last couple of hours fairly hard work.
Crossed a col south of Rians where there was a ceremony about to start. The road was closed but the dignitary waved us through to an ovation from the crowd as we passed the summit.
Turned out to be a liberation day celebration which was in full swing as we reached the town.
Arrived in St Maximin la Ste Baume at 1pm.
I was very overheated so we quickly grabbed some food, Sue's hunger outranked my heat, and then into the pool. Felt much better after.
The nights are very hot and sticky, I would sleep outside except we are still both suffering from nasty insect bites. It seems you don't get immune to them.

Just one stop and two days riding to go if everything stays on plan Although our original route has been very much altered over the past few weeks our destination towns have stayed pretty much as planned.

Site Full

Left Apt as soon as the bread arrived and set off into the Luberon hills. Cool and pleasant and not too steep, or we're getting used to climbing.
Stopped after 50 mins for breakfast and to ring ahead to campsites. All were either complet or didn't answer. At this point we decided that moving on a public holiday wasn't such a great idea.
With no choice but to carry on, we did.
A spectacular road runs between Apt and Aix with no alternative route for the first 20k. Traffic though wasn't to bad except for one idiotic Belgian who decided to overtake us round a corner on a narrow bit of road whilst passing an oncoming car. You may have heard me shout from home.
Resolved eventually to head for one of the sites we had no reply from and then either keep going till we found space or look for somewhere to wild camp for the night.
This meant us finally abandoning going to Aix, but could save us a day's riding and I don't think we fancied struggling through a city in this heqt..
Reached Tour d'Aigues at 12.25 to be greeted by the friendliest warden of a super site...and just in time to sprint back up hill for cold drinks.
We'll rest up here at 10€ a night till the weekend when sites should start to be a little easier to get on. Then head for St Maximin.

Aptitude Test

I don't want to gloat or anything, but we're sat in a Bistro in Saignon, a very pretty Provençal hill top village, between salad and ice-cream with the sun trying to find the gaps in the shade to fry my head.
We left Pernes after visiting the cycle museum and market and left with even fonder feelings towards the town.
The climb over the Col de Murs was as hard as expected but we were encouraged by a multitude of French Sunday cyclists sharing the climb.

It did feel as if all my muscles had been replaced with jelly. I think we allowed ourselves to get a bit dehydrated on the ride from St Martin.
Rang ahead and secured a place at the municipal in Apt.
Arrived at lunchtime after a hard and hot 42k. I could barely stay awake let alone put the tent up.
7€ a night with a great atmosphere (very like music festival complete with strolling minstrels ) with loads of tourers both cycle and walkers. Turns out we're on a cycle route that runs E towards Sisteron.
Because of our general state of knackerdness and the cheapness of the site we decided to stay here a couple of days.
We now have some English neighbours, two of whom are on a climbing holiday and the other is on a two week bike tour of the area on her own. We also chatted to a French lad from Marseille who has given advice about our route to Narbonne. "Don't go to Marseille" he said "There's nothing there for tourists".
So we're here in Saignon, still waiting for pudding, but who's rushing? Tomorrow we start to cross the Luberon mountains, we'll probably give Aix a miss and head towards Pertuis depending on camp sites.
2 hours later, ice-cream and coffee arrive. Just remains now to roll back down the very big hill we climbed to get here.

Only we decided to make a loop, so we carried on up and over through small villages, harvested lavender fields, and views towards what may or may not have been Mont Blanc (right direction, big and white but surely too far. ) then down and back along the cycle track. So much for a day off the bikes.

One too many (early) Mornings

And a thousand miles behind.
Fabulous stay at St Martin. Lovely little town. Moules/frites for dinner, for the first time this trip, by the river at a lively bar with live lounge jazz.

Up early to walk into Aigueze across the river. Bought pastries for breakfast and sat and ate them on the cliff tops.
Reached the village to find there was another bloody market going on. In France it seems you're only ever 500m from a market at any time.
Armed with olives, fougasse, and rose we retired to lunch.
After some sleeping and a mild dust up with the campsite warden ( me, being assertive in French, another first ) we went to the municipal beach and had a cooling swim in the Ardeche.
Away at 9 on Friday morning. Breakfast on the banks of the Rhone.
A long hot, windy but mostly flat 82 km saw us to Pernes les Fontaines, all day riding in the shadow of Ventoux. So strange to be somewhere familiar and if anything even better in the summer. Pleased we rang ahead as the site was showing complet signs when we arrived.
1000 miles now have passed under our wheels. Strangely the further we have come the less remarkable it feels to us. But still, bloody hell, a thousand miles!
Col de Murs tomorrow, or the day after. Shortest, but not the easiest way to Apt. But more interesting than the main road and hopefully quieter.
Suggested a quick trip up Ventoux as we're so close (without bags). I don't think a lady should speak like that, I didn't know she knew words like that.

So, pool, shower, Intermarche, tent up, food, write this and zzzz.

Oh it seems that there's a market here in the morning.

Early Start

Awake at 6 and rolled out of the site at 7.40.
A few flat kms and then into the biggest climb of the day. Being early didn't make it any less steep (10% for most of the way) but it did mean not having to worry about the traffic and it was quite cool.
Breakfast at the belvedere at the top of the climb.
It was quite emotional at the top of the second climb when Mt Ventoux came into sight for the first time. When I was on the the summit in March to be able to do this tour was still a dream.
The rest of the gorge was a series of ups and downs and fairly uneventful (although Sue claimed I tried to lose her on one section. I didn't know her chain had come off.) but it was very scenic.
We chatted to a young German who was aiming to reach Madrid in less than 4 weeks from home. 150k a day but he said he had no time to look at anything. I think I prefer our way, but we have the luxury of time.
We decided to stop short of our original target as St Martin looked attractive and the campsite seemed ok, had space( but full by 4 ) and wasn't too dear at 13.50€.
Ride was done by noon, 39k and 590m of climbing.
Bought cheese and melon from the market as it was closing and some wine from the boulangerie and then fell asleep...again.

The Madness of This Gorge

I didn't know there were so many canoes in the whole world.
We decided to stay another day after our patch of dirt was turned into a patch of mud by another storm yesterday morning.

Went for the day to Pont d'Arc and paid our 4€ to sit in the beach, on our chairs of course, look at the scenery and watch the world. The world consisted of crowds of other people filling every inch of the beach and of hundreds of canoes filling every inch of water. So much for a wild and free adventure. It's a shame as 30k away on the river Chassezac there was beautiful scenery and almost deserted water with just the occasional canoe, and underused hire companies.

Early start tomorrow to try get down the gorge before the heat and the stupidly busy traffic starts.
Despite the crowds and the iffy pitch it's been a really nice stay. We're not sure if we will be able to find cheaper campsites in the Vaucluse but we'll try as these prices are wrecking our budget.

Stormy Sunday

First big storms last night and into this morning. Cleared enough for us pack up and go.
Arrived at Vallon Pont d'Arc just around two. Very busy. Managed to find a patch of dirt for two days if we want at 23.50 a night, but in high season here with no booking it's ok. At least we have somewhere to sleep.
Having a wander around the town before we go back and put the tent up. More storms maybe tonight. Who needs to sleep?

Into the South

Two restful days at Naussac doing nothing much. Sat reading in the semi shade the creases on my stomach shielded from the sun, I now look like I've been griddled with white lines across my belly. It keeps people amused.

We picked up some emails from the solicitor about problems with the NHS part of the sale. Nothing we can do even if we were home. The money we're still owed looks a bit more distant though.
We also got a message from Sue's Mum to say her Dad was in hospital . We rang as soon as we found out and he's home and it's hopefully "just" an infection. It prompted a discussion about what we'd do if a serious situation developed. We decided we'd have to improvise that one.
We left not very early Friday morning bound for Les Vans. Really expecting a linking ride between two areas.
22km of gentle climb followed by 40km of down as we came off the Massif Centrale.
As we turned of the main road to begin the drop we entered a deep heavily wooded nearly deserted valley. We saw 3 cars in the first 20k and no walkers or bikes.
We went down slowly taking in the sights, sounds and smells. A cacophony of crickets, the aroma of warmed herbs and the greens, browns and blues of the Borne valley. This merged at Pied de Borne into a slightly busier but still quiet gorge. (begins with a "C" but I have no map and can't remember it's name.)
Saw our first roadside cactus ate lunch with our feet in the river and really felt there was no better way to spend a day.
Found the site at Les Vans easily although they seem to have forgotten to install toilets (well nowhere near enough) and the town and Super U is at the bottom of another kilometre hill. Oh well, small price to pay.
Sites here are now much busier and prices are creeping up. 17€ for a two star.
Tricky couple of days to come with finding sites and riding through the Ardeche gorge but today.....another market.

Back on Line, Still on Track

The Kindle running out of its monthly 3G allowance ( I didn't know there was one but it's 50mb) and lack of wifi means I'm now a few days behind.
Le Pre du Mars site was without a doubt the best in terms of "coolness" that we have stayed on so far.
The communal dinner arranged on Friday evening was intended to get people together and mixing. This was arranged by Eric the owner who qualifies to be described as interesting in a good way, mostly.
We ate with Danes, Dutch, Polish, French and us. A good evening finished off with a long discussion about cultural differences with Eric at the bar.
The next two says were spend relaxing in the sun. The storms never really arrived and it was very warm.
On Saturday evening after we had eaten we were invited for coffee at our Dutch neighbours. I have to apologise to Conny and Fons for drinking all their wine and coffee and eating all their lovely butter cake. Never invite hungry bike tourers for coffee if you want to still have food left.
Fons humbled my riding efforts with recounting his 5 times up Alpes d'Huez in one day for breast cancer charity accompanied on one ascent by his 12 year old son. Left at 1am just as all the campsite lights including the toilets went out.
Sunday the weather was even better so we lay around (again) swam in the Loire checked over the bikes and cooked with the Honeystove on the river bank.

Packed up Monday morning and said our goodbyes.
Conny and Fons, your children and Morris, if you do read this, thanks for a lovely few days and your help with charging batteries and blowing up tyres. We owe you cake and wine.
Monday's ride took us into Le Puy where we glimpsed the monuments but it was very busy so we went straight through. The road South out of the town took us up the steepest hill so far, at midday typically.
Reached Le Monastier sur Gazeille after just under 50k.
Nice site by a small etang. Lots of backpackers around as we were on the Robert Louis Stevenson trail. A donkey would have been useful as the campsite was down a long very steep hill. This was great going down but played on our minds as it meant the next riding day would start with a big climb before we even began the route and the next day was going to be the biggest climbing day of the whole trip.
We spend the evening eating, resting and deciding whether to stay a day or go. We decided eventually to go and get it over with.
Although Tuesday was going to be very hot the tent was saturated with condensation in the morning. Packed and set off by 9.
We were right to be worried about the climb back to the village. 100m of climbing in a kilometre. Sue had to push one small part, too steep with cold muscles. Looked round the town to recover before starting the ride

proper.
A hard day but through some of finest scenery so far. 3 big climbs and we crossed the Loire again, this time for the last time I think. Followed the D500 all the way to Pradelles where we stopped to look round the old town and then onto Langogne where we shopped.
Just for fun we then went up a steep hill then down a steep hill to the campsite reception at Naussac then up an almost unrideable hill up to the camp field. Do these people not think about people on bikes?
Tent up, off the to pool were we stayed reading in the evening sun till 8.30.
Sausages, salad, lentils and chocolate and a warm feeling of accomplishment. 50k and just under 1000m of climbing. We're now in the Ardeche.
We're both starting to feel that this is now less of a holiday and more of a different way of living. I suppose the good weather helps but we could just keep going and never stop.

Where are the Brits

8 hours on the road yesterday, the campsite here and a 10k round trip into town.....and not one GB car or English voice. Is everyone at home watching the Olympics? Or doesn't anyone from home come to this area. They should, but I'm not telling.

Oh la Loire

I shouldn't drink at lunchtime. Felt rubbish all yesterday afternoon. Coq au vin out of a can, bottle of peach tea, shower and bed.
We knew that today would be tough, we were right.
Up at 6.35 and away by 8.20, trying to get some of the climbing out of the way before the heat hits.
Managed to get on some off road which was getting a bit steep so we bailed out, me literally as I hit some soft stuff and lost the bike. Bit scuffed but ok.
Back on the road the climb seemed to go on forever.
Reached Craponne where we stopped for a coffee and to ring about the air bed.
Noticed we were surrounded by people in cowboy hats and American flags. A country music festival starts tonight. We resisted the temptation and pushed on.
We reached our destination of Retournac and found the site which was uninspiring.
We sat for a bit, drank our beers ate some cheese, then packed up and moved on.
The next site didn't exist on the ground so we had to push on.
So we're now at Vorey and back on the banks of the Loire after 78 Kms and 800m of climbing and off our original route.
Storms are forecast tomorrow so might sit it out here for a bit.

 About to have a communal dinner at the bar, eek!

Gear Update

Sat in the shade after eating the most enormous lump of Forme d'Ambert cheese and Brebis cheese and saucisson and pink wine.
If I fall asleep I'll fall off my chair so I'll do an update on non journey stuff.

Sleeping
Sue's mat has developed a fault and is slowly expanding. It may take over the whole tent soon. I've sent an email to the shop but I don't suppose there is much they can do.
Sleeping bags are probably too warm and we sleep mostly on top of them, but we knew that would probably be the case and they will still be useful on colder nights elsewhere.
Mirrors
These have provoked by far they biggest reaction. We have been stopped in the street by people curious about what is sticking out of our heads. It seems most people have never seen a "retro" or "retro vision" as people call them.

In use they have been invaluable. Being able to watch for trucks behind and for Sue to make sure I'm not falling too far behind her. They have really been very useful for this sort of riding.
Electrical
Well, we have never run out of power for anything and considering that we have 2 kindles, 2 iPods, 2 exposure headtorches, 2 phones, GPS, camera, and the storage battery that's good. How we manage to move is another question.
During the day the dynamo will charge either the kindles or the battery. After riding the battery charges anything that's low except the camera.
We will leave the camera battery or the storage battery on charge in the loos, other things if it's a quiet site. If the plot has an old style connection we'll use that to top up things. It's a bit naughty as we're not paying for electricity but no different to plugging into the toilets or reception.
Cooking
All fine except threaded gas cylinders have proved elusive at times.
The honey stove has been great fun and has saved us lots of gas but will probably get used less as we go into dryer areas where fire restrictions are much tighter.
Chairs
A last minute decision which I fought against. "We don't need them and they'll be too heavy". Well, I was wrong on both counts. They are very comfortable and well worth carrying the extra weight for the sheer pleasure of having something to collapse into at the end of a long day.
Camera
Very pleased with the Sony so far but will only really know when I can see the shots on a proper screen.
Using my 30 year old Pentax 50mm on it looks great but we will see if the results back that up.
Frustrating and a bit of a worry that I can't upload or back anything up. I've just got to hope that nothing happens to the SD card. I've started a new card to spread the risk a bit. Still using jpeg rather than the usual raw files though I would probably have had enough card space for raw.
Bikes
Except for the broken spoke they have just worked. Brakes and gears need tweaking from time to time but otherwise so far so good.
Bodies

Back aches,
Leg aches,
Stiff neck,
Bites,
Turning a funny colour,
Sleepy zzzzz

Run Away

We left Tiers at 8.45 pursued by hordes of mosquitoes, each of us nursing scores of bites. They appeared at dusk before we had finished eating and clearing up and attacked us remorselessly. They were waiting for us in the early morning light to finish us off.
We managed to pedal in between the scratching, which is still no better, and it maybe worse, as I write this.
Destination Ambert 58 km and uphill all day except for one down after a fearsome climb.
Not so sure of the route planning today as it went for a large part of the day along a fairly main road, but there wasn't an obvious alternative without adding a lot of distance and climbing. Anyway it wasn't too bad and we were given plenty of space by most of the traffic.
The hottest day so far, we carried extra water, even the wine bladder was pressed into water carrying service All adding to the weight though.
Lunch by in a field by the river Dore. We both splashed but stopped short of swimming.
Another rest day tomorrow, a shuttle bus runs to the town market from the site in the morning so that should be good. I must be getting old.

Now it's Hot

Left before 10 expecting after two days off to be fit and fresh. It seems not to work that way.
36km to the site which is a few kms outside Thiers.
Both of us felt very heavy legged not helped by the temperature. 27 in the shade at 6pm. We're not complaining though.
Not too pleased that the nearest shop was 5km away down a busy road, especially as we have to go that way tomorrow.
We're going to have to give Thiers a miss as it's up a big hill and we really need to move tomorrow.
Despite being short it was a fabulous ride today with fantastic scenery that we would normally whizz by in the car.
Came round one bend to a herd of wild boar by the side of the road with some tiny stripy babies or piglets or whatever.
We're sharing a can of warm lager but it's still nice.
Uphill all the way for the next few days with few towns so food supplies could be interesting.

Chalk and Cheese

The site at Huriel was Sue's favourite so far. It was divided by the river into two sections. When we arrived the only people on our side were a group of travellers with huge caravans who seemed to be having a dispute with the management.
They left on Thurday afternoon leaving half of the site and the newly cleaned loo block to our exclusive use. All for 5€ a night.

Our day off was dull weather again but still good.
Fridays don't like us. I knew it was likely to be a tough day with lots of climbing but wow. 62kms and 760m of climbing. It rained, not biblical like the previous week but still wet.

The route I'd plotted seemed to include some bramble and nettle infested off road. It would have been ok on the mountain bikes but not with panniers and I was worried about breaking another spoke.
Pulled into St Eloy les Mines at about half four. Sue gave the warden a laugh when he saw how utterly knackered she looked.
Bizarrely went to watch a display of Puerto Rican dancing in the town recreation area.We were tempted to stay especially as another country's dance team was on but the weather forecast and our desire for a couple of days off led us to up pegs.


 
Another 64kms and more climbing but lovely weather and fabulous scenery. Glimpsed the Puy de Dome but our path doesn't take us there.
The route took us through part of the Gorge de Sioule which was unexpected and very attractive.

Found a site at Vichy with a view across the river to the town.
Completely different sort of site with pool and slide but ideal to rest for a couple of days.

Explored the town and drank the waters on Sunday. Taste disgusting but they're supposed to be good for you.