Should have Waited for the Fat Lady

Went for lunch on Friday in Narbonne and found a traffic friendly route in.
Came back with time to partially pack and get organised. Still forecast to rain pretty much all day Saturday so wanted to be as ready as possible.
Saturday morning.....dry. Rode the 5k or so to the boulangerie as we were too late to order last night. Got back as dark clouds started to roll in and thunder began to rumble.
Sue put the tarp up to give us some shelter and finished just as the rain started.
It was gentle to start with but then it picked up just a bit. I was outside spilling water out of the tarp and Sue was inside looking after the inner tent.
The water level around us started to rise as water ran down from the higher parts of the site, and we weren't the lowest point!
I began to become concerned when firstly the saucepan started to float away followed by other tins and utensil.
At this point it became clear Sue was having problems of her own as the outer tent slowly submerged. Within moments the water had risen to start lapping over the inner tent skirt. We had left it late to get the sleeping bags into dry bags and only one got in reasonably dry.
As the inner tent started to fill up and the guy ropes started failing as the ground washed away around the pegs, the call went up to abandon tent.
We got as much stuff as possible into dry bags and into the bathroom.
We had to laugh, the last day, bloody hell.
Sue went off to reception to get warm and sort out a cabin.
I found our frying pan 100m away, and so far we still haven't found the big saucepan or the cutlery and some other bits. I'm going back out later when the water has gone down.
Sue's phone was submerged and she rescued her journal just in time.
So we're in a cabin with drying stuff everywhere waiting for the rain to stop.
It's supposed to be nice tomorrow.
Update...
Found the missing pan and most of the stuff. The pan was in a field at the far end of the site, and it's a big site.

End of the Road

No more routes to plan, no more browsing maps looking for hills to cross, we've arrived at Narbonne.
We're now sat in 4 star camping luxury, on a huge plot with our own bathroom and toilet, it's just like being at home.

It rained on Wednesday evening, but we spent the evening with a British couple who invited us to share shelter and drinks with them in their motor home. We drew the line at their invite to cook our tin of chilli in their van, but we did take it inside to eat, and they washed up for us. If Stan and Sheila ever read this, we feel very guilty.
Thursday came warm and sunny, the road we took to Narbonne was quiet and easy, at least until getting round the outskirts of the town itself which were a bit lethal.
We've checked out our collection point and now have to reorganise our bags and stuff. Then into Narbonne for a bit of sightseeing. Storms and rain forecast for tomorrow so we'll make the most of today.

Anyway Carcasonne is just down the road, and Spain is just over those hills over there and nobody would notice if we missed the bus, so I might just get those maps back out again.

No Way Out

Said goodbye to Enko (dog) and Balaruc and set off towards Beziers.
We expected a longish day as there are fewer open sites around now.
Passed through Sete and along the causeway to Agde. Miles of lovely beaches but not very pretty surroundings.
We couldn't escape Agde as every road led to a restricted D road. French towns down here are well equipped with cycle lanes, but there is little concession for travelling from town to town by bike.
After an hour of searching in the company of another couple of cyclists trying to get to the same place as us we found the Canal du Midi and took that.
It was unsurfaced and very bumpy (the towpath not the canal, that was quite smooth but a bit too wet) but at least we were going in the right direction.
We were helped to lift the bikes over some narrow gates by a Dutch couple past some arcane machinery to divert the river where it crossed the canal.
The path turned into Tarmac for the last 10k and took us into Beziers.
After being happily called a "mean fecker" by an Irish guy, for not letting Sue stay in a B&B, he directed us to the shops.
We picked the canal back up and into Columbiers where we found an open site.
Pitched next to a Canadien couple bike touring around most of Europe but using flying or train between locations.
75k today but it felt longer, it seems we are winding down along with the time.
Last night we felt that if the bus could go tomorrow we'd be on it, but today after a sleep, daft thoughts like that have gone away.
Woke to a much cooler morning, I think the summer may over now.
Don't know if we can be bothered to ride back to Beziers, even if it's only 7k so we might just explore locally.

Getting Closer

Saturday turned into a lovely warm day, so we walked into the village and through possibly the tattiest brocante sale yet. Then back to sit by the pool and read for an hour or so.
8.30 start and into Montpellier for 10.30. Rode around the city centre , a curious mix of traditional and austere modern but still with an unloved feel that seems to be typical of this corner of France.
It has been interesting to see along this coast especially Cassis and Marseille but it's not an area I would want to spend a lot of time in and the riding has been on the whole busier and less rewarding.
We're in Balaruc les Bains now, just North of Sete. After a bright start the wind has picked up again so we're debating whether to explore, shop or both.
I've just read an article about Marseille and the northern part we rode through. Apparently it's the poorest part of the poorest city in France. That makes sense. We saw a woman with a bucket and large spanner opening a fire hydrant to get water as we passed and thought that she must have no running water. It's that sort of sight that you wouldn't see from a car as the main road is on a flyover above the whole area. It' been very intense to see so much so closely.
I've worked out that even with our 3 weeks break at Domaine we will have ridden a loaded 50+km ride on average about every second day. If I'd thought this through in those terms after our practice around Rugby I'm not so sure I'd have been so keen to do this. So I'm very glad I didn't do the maths.

Petit Carmargue

A relatively easy flattish 63k today to Lansargues just past Lunel. We were both happy with this as our legs didn't want anything harder.
Started off fine but clouded over in the afternoon, but still warm.
We noticed that the towns around here are a little more run down with more litter than is usual in France. Even Arles looked as if times are not that great.
Got our confirmation of the pickup time in Narbonne, 2.45 a week on Sunday. So we have week to cover the last 130k or so. Still not sure if we'll be able to see Montpellier or not. Weather forecast for next week not so good so we may push on.

The Longest Day

As we started the climb out of La Couronne it was obvious that the wind was going to be a problem. The planned route was already around 70k and we very rarely avoid going over the planned mileage.
We had breakfast in Martigues and the set off towards Fos. The problems started when the only direct road was a restricted N road. We diverted around , got some advice from a old guy on a scooter who came over to us pondering our map, and still almost ended up on an autoroute. Quickly backing up the slipway we looked for another route. One dead end, more advice from a La Poste lady and we had a revised route which would get us to Arles from the east rather than the west.
We left the towns and headed onto the D5. 12k of open straight road with no shelter straight into the Mistral. Despite it being flat we could do no more than an unsteady walking pace.
After what seemed hours we turned west towards Arles.
Did some shopping at St Martin de la Crau and pushed on to the edge of Arles fortified by coca cola and bananas. The site was recommended by some English cyclists we met going the other way.
Whilst sorting out I found that I'd left my lock at the supermarket. I wasn't happy, but was far too tired to do anything about it.
6 and a half hours riding, 85+ kms and 600+m of climbing, plenty for one day.
Woke up at 8, after nearly 10 hours asleep, got up, dressed and went off to find my lock. A 26k round trip but it was still on the floor where I left it, so worthwhile.
Back for breakfast and the rest of the day.
It's much cooler today but at least the wind has dropped.

Out of the Var and into the Bouche

Deciding to go through Marseille on a Sunday paid an immediate dividend. The coast road from Cassis into the city was closed to traffic because of a bike race. We were allowed through though. So the first 20k were a car free pleasure, except for it being uphill until we reached the col. We came round the corner to see Marseille stretching around the bay.

Half of it's population seemed to be cycling or jogging up our road.
We soon found the other half were on the cycle track along Prado beach. Between brain dead pedestrians, rollerbladers, dogs, cyclists and several other random hazards it was about the most dangerous bit of riding we've done.
From there negotiating the old port with it's major roadworks, the traffic and the one way system was child's play. Marseille on a touring bike is not for the faint hearted.
We finally escaped the centre to find ourselves in the Northern outskirts were it felt like a little bit of Africa displaced into Europe, complete with a flea market and masses of people in a state of organised chaos.
I lost a brake block and fixed a quick repair on a roundabout.
We climbed up and out on what I thought would be the last major climb of the journey. We dropped down and had lunch on the shore of the Etang du Berre. Very peaceful after the noise of Marseille.
I had assumed wrongly, not for the first time, that the sites at Martigues would be in the town. Instead they were at La Couronne, 8kms away over the inevitable big hill. So much for the last climb, we have to back over that when we leave.
The site proved to be lovely with views over the sea, a terrific plot, a shop and at dusk the haunting sound of the engines and horns of the distant tankers from the refineries along the coast.
All in all one of our toughest days at 80kms and 700m of climbing. We were both very pleased to stop but happy with how the day had gone.

Site for Sore Eyes

Up at 6.15. Dark. We're really noticing the days shortening now and it's getting much cooler at either end of the day.
Packed and left just before 8.
Set off on the road towards Cassis (very busy), through Bandol and on to La Ciotat where we stopped after 20k or so for breakfast and to ring sites.
Sue started with Cassis, and this time they said if we were there by 12 we should be ok.
We pushed on and reached the site by 10.50, via some evil hill climbs. One climb out of La Ciotat looked like a definite downhill but our legs and the GPS confirmed it was a 4-6% climb. Really weird for the illusion to last for so long.
The site turned out to have loads of room and still had by late afternoon.
Walked down into the town, which is very smart and generally very attractive and decided that we'll go for a boat trip round the Callanques (weather permitting) rather than walk. We reckon we'll see more and our shoes are not really up to rough trekking.
Slogged back up the hill via Super U for chicken to go with site shop chips.

I'm still walking round with runny eyes. No lenses today so hopefully they'll be better tomorrow. Apparently it was a good look for me to be walking around crying with a blob of strawberry ice-cream stuck on my chin.

The Road to Narbonne

Decided against trying for too early a start on Wednesday, so got up after six and went for a swim lit by the rising sun. The colours of the sea and the sounds of the water were truly beautiful. It was very calm with no sign of the forecast winds.
Said our goodbyes and left the site at 9,40.
The bike track to Toulon was uneventful but once it ended in the city centre it became interesting. Very busy lots of traffic and no certain route through. By now the wind was picking up and blowing straight at us.
It took a good part of an hour to get through it and on the road to Sanary.
We stopped for lunch at Six Fours and watched the windsurfers battling the wind.
Rode into Sanary and got directions from the tourist information about the site and supermarkets.
Arrived at the site only to be turned away as they were full. Two myths went down then. No full sites in September and they will always find room if you're on bikes.
They directed us to their sister site a few kms away which was fine just a bit close to the autoroute.
It was quite late by then so we cooked the food we picked up in Sanary and called it a day.
72kms and a hard reintroduction to touring.
Thursday we made use of facilities and used the very nice pool, ate a Tagine in the restaurant and then headed into town.
Got back and asked if reception could ring ahead to Cassis to see if there was space there. The response was "complet every day" . If you get here before 10 there may be space but maybe not.
Went back to the maps but there are no obvious alternatives, there are surprisingly few campsites around this bit of coastline.
It's now getting very dark at 8 so as my eyes are very sore and tired (a day without lenses tomorrow) we decided to make an early start and to make it up as we go.

End of the Idyll

Idyll or Idle, both would work. Three weeks of doing very little but eating, drinking, swimming, with the occasional splash in the canoe and a couple of excursions on the bikes.
We're both expanding around the middle, but we're happy.
Today we've taken down the tent and are starting to get re-organised to get back on the road tomorrow. We are sleeping tonight in Grandma's caravan so that we can get away earlier, although the lure of a dawn swim may get the better of us.
I managed to flatten the Range Rover's battery inflating the bike tyres this morning as well as wrecking another inner tube. I think we are running with too low pressure much of the time and that is damaging the valve stems causing them to fail. Different pump needed next time. For the Silk Road, maybe!
Tomorrow will see us aiming for Sanary sur Mer some 60 km away, mostly on bike track but with a forecast of 30 km headwind it could be fun (especially after a 3 week break).
So sad to leave but happy to get back to the adventure.