Where are the Brits

8 hours on the road yesterday, the campsite here and a 10k round trip into town.....and not one GB car or English voice. Is everyone at home watching the Olympics? Or doesn't anyone from home come to this area. They should, but I'm not telling.

Oh la Loire

I shouldn't drink at lunchtime. Felt rubbish all yesterday afternoon. Coq au vin out of a can, bottle of peach tea, shower and bed.
We knew that today would be tough, we were right.
Up at 6.35 and away by 8.20, trying to get some of the climbing out of the way before the heat hits.
Managed to get on some off road which was getting a bit steep so we bailed out, me literally as I hit some soft stuff and lost the bike. Bit scuffed but ok.
Back on the road the climb seemed to go on forever.
Reached Craponne where we stopped for a coffee and to ring about the air bed.
Noticed we were surrounded by people in cowboy hats and American flags. A country music festival starts tonight. We resisted the temptation and pushed on.
We reached our destination of Retournac and found the site which was uninspiring.
We sat for a bit, drank our beers ate some cheese, then packed up and moved on.
The next site didn't exist on the ground so we had to push on.
So we're now at Vorey and back on the banks of the Loire after 78 Kms and 800m of climbing and off our original route.
Storms are forecast tomorrow so might sit it out here for a bit.

 About to have a communal dinner at the bar, eek!

Gear Update

Sat in the shade after eating the most enormous lump of Forme d'Ambert cheese and Brebis cheese and saucisson and pink wine.
If I fall asleep I'll fall off my chair so I'll do an update on non journey stuff.

Sleeping
Sue's mat has developed a fault and is slowly expanding. It may take over the whole tent soon. I've sent an email to the shop but I don't suppose there is much they can do.
Sleeping bags are probably too warm and we sleep mostly on top of them, but we knew that would probably be the case and they will still be useful on colder nights elsewhere.
Mirrors
These have provoked by far they biggest reaction. We have been stopped in the street by people curious about what is sticking out of our heads. It seems most people have never seen a "retro" or "retro vision" as people call them.

In use they have been invaluable. Being able to watch for trucks behind and for Sue to make sure I'm not falling too far behind her. They have really been very useful for this sort of riding.
Electrical
Well, we have never run out of power for anything and considering that we have 2 kindles, 2 iPods, 2 exposure headtorches, 2 phones, GPS, camera, and the storage battery that's good. How we manage to move is another question.
During the day the dynamo will charge either the kindles or the battery. After riding the battery charges anything that's low except the camera.
We will leave the camera battery or the storage battery on charge in the loos, other things if it's a quiet site. If the plot has an old style connection we'll use that to top up things. It's a bit naughty as we're not paying for electricity but no different to plugging into the toilets or reception.
Cooking
All fine except threaded gas cylinders have proved elusive at times.
The honey stove has been great fun and has saved us lots of gas but will probably get used less as we go into dryer areas where fire restrictions are much tighter.
Chairs
A last minute decision which I fought against. "We don't need them and they'll be too heavy". Well, I was wrong on both counts. They are very comfortable and well worth carrying the extra weight for the sheer pleasure of having something to collapse into at the end of a long day.
Camera
Very pleased with the Sony so far but will only really know when I can see the shots on a proper screen.
Using my 30 year old Pentax 50mm on it looks great but we will see if the results back that up.
Frustrating and a bit of a worry that I can't upload or back anything up. I've just got to hope that nothing happens to the SD card. I've started a new card to spread the risk a bit. Still using jpeg rather than the usual raw files though I would probably have had enough card space for raw.
Bikes
Except for the broken spoke they have just worked. Brakes and gears need tweaking from time to time but otherwise so far so good.
Bodies

Back aches,
Leg aches,
Stiff neck,
Bites,
Turning a funny colour,
Sleepy zzzzz

Run Away

We left Tiers at 8.45 pursued by hordes of mosquitoes, each of us nursing scores of bites. They appeared at dusk before we had finished eating and clearing up and attacked us remorselessly. They were waiting for us in the early morning light to finish us off.
We managed to pedal in between the scratching, which is still no better, and it maybe worse, as I write this.
Destination Ambert 58 km and uphill all day except for one down after a fearsome climb.
Not so sure of the route planning today as it went for a large part of the day along a fairly main road, but there wasn't an obvious alternative without adding a lot of distance and climbing. Anyway it wasn't too bad and we were given plenty of space by most of the traffic.
The hottest day so far, we carried extra water, even the wine bladder was pressed into water carrying service All adding to the weight though.
Lunch by in a field by the river Dore. We both splashed but stopped short of swimming.
Another rest day tomorrow, a shuttle bus runs to the town market from the site in the morning so that should be good. I must be getting old.

Now it's Hot

Left before 10 expecting after two days off to be fit and fresh. It seems not to work that way.
36km to the site which is a few kms outside Thiers.
Both of us felt very heavy legged not helped by the temperature. 27 in the shade at 6pm. We're not complaining though.
Not too pleased that the nearest shop was 5km away down a busy road, especially as we have to go that way tomorrow.
We're going to have to give Thiers a miss as it's up a big hill and we really need to move tomorrow.
Despite being short it was a fabulous ride today with fantastic scenery that we would normally whizz by in the car.
Came round one bend to a herd of wild boar by the side of the road with some tiny stripy babies or piglets or whatever.
We're sharing a can of warm lager but it's still nice.
Uphill all the way for the next few days with few towns so food supplies could be interesting.

Chalk and Cheese

The site at Huriel was Sue's favourite so far. It was divided by the river into two sections. When we arrived the only people on our side were a group of travellers with huge caravans who seemed to be having a dispute with the management.
They left on Thurday afternoon leaving half of the site and the newly cleaned loo block to our exclusive use. All for 5€ a night.

Our day off was dull weather again but still good.
Fridays don't like us. I knew it was likely to be a tough day with lots of climbing but wow. 62kms and 760m of climbing. It rained, not biblical like the previous week but still wet.

The route I'd plotted seemed to include some bramble and nettle infested off road. It would have been ok on the mountain bikes but not with panniers and I was worried about breaking another spoke.
Pulled into St Eloy les Mines at about half four. Sue gave the warden a laugh when he saw how utterly knackered she looked.
Bizarrely went to watch a display of Puerto Rican dancing in the town recreation area.We were tempted to stay especially as another country's dance team was on but the weather forecast and our desire for a couple of days off led us to up pegs.


 
Another 64kms and more climbing but lovely weather and fabulous scenery. Glimpsed the Puy de Dome but our path doesn't take us there.
The route took us through part of the Gorge de Sioule which was unexpected and very attractive.

Found a site at Vichy with a view across the river to the town.
Completely different sort of site with pool and slide but ideal to rest for a couple of days.

Explored the town and drank the waters on Sunday. Taste disgusting but they're supposed to be good for you.

Into the Auvergne

Three great days. Decided reluctantly to leave Argenton
Monday, fluffy white clouds, lovely countryside, altogether a good days bike ride. Ended up at Montgivray outside La Chatre. We both fell in love with the village. Definitely one to remember.
Tuesday much more cloudy than predicted. Went into the town to shop and look. Came back with half a bottle of rose and knackis as if the sun was shining. Also one inner tube. Result.

 

All evening the air was full of folk and traditional music, fiddle, whistle, accordion and bagpipe things, all played really well. Our own live concert. We think there was a festival nearby and they were all using our site as a base.
Today saw us to Huriel outside of Montlucon and into the Auvergne district.
Very hot and very hilly. The last two days of riding have seen us do 110kms and well over a 1000metres of climbing. But still a terrific day.
Probably day off again tomorrow depending on the weather in the morning.

Uneventful is Good

Very cool at start of the day but bright and stayed good all day. Still not really warm but we're not complaining. One of the shorter flatter day at only 41kms and less than 100m of climbing. I think that this may have been the last easy day. So we've reached Argenton sur Creuse which is a lovely town. Went for a walk along the very photogenic river side into town. Found the only bike shop which was shut today and is shut tomorrow so no new inner tube yet, unless we stay an extra day. Sue's just worked out that we have done 780kms so far and that puts us at about half way in distance terms.

Friday the 13th

Well that was a fun day. Morning came dull and damp, again! Set off in full waterproofs only to strip off again when it dryed and warmed up a few minutes later. For the next hour it was off and on but just before lunch it really started to come down. Full Goretex from then on. Rear lights flashing and folk in cars shouting encouragement or something anyway. We knew we had to find food possibly for a few days as Saturday is a public holiday and Sundays can be difficult to find things open.
Lunch was had in a bus shelter.
The campsite we were aiming for was a three star at Meziere en Brenne which looked good from the book.
We found a small mini Proxi market in the town but the campsite was another 8-10kms down the wrong road.
I'd noticed a bit of a wobble on my rear wheel a little earlier so whilst Sue was browsing I had a look and put a little air the tyre. We finished our shopping and were loading up a lot of supplies when Sue pointed at my now completely flat rear tyre. Bliss. Pumping made no difference so a new tube was called for. We only have one spare, unpuncturable tyres you see.
So off came all the luggage into the shopping trolley, still raining heavily remember. Tyre off, no puncture, great tyres, but the valve's torn.
I fit the new innertube and the tyre, which are pigs to get on.
At this point I notice the broken spoke.
I have a spare, I think to myself, but a broken spoke rear drive side needs the cassette removing to fit it. Back to needing a bloody cassette tool.
Sue goes in the shop to ask about bike shops. Every village in France has one. This one doesn't. And nobody speaks a word of English. And we're in the Berry region, ho ho.
We get directed to local garage so off I ride whilst Sue minds the bags getting colder. They're very friendly but obviously know nothing about bikes and really want to go home for the holiday.
We decide to try to reach the site short of a spoke and hope the wheel doesn't collapse when the shop lady comes out and we gathered offers us a lift in her van. We obviously declined as that would be cheating.
So with both bikes in the van and me in the back we were driven to the campsite. It seemed a very long way.
The very kind lady left us in the rain in front of possibly the most desolate site we'd ever seen.
Put the tent up in the rain. Everything is wet. food was mush and the wine was undrinkable. Went to bed. A perfect day.

Woke up this morning to.....how unusual rain. Miles from anywhere on the site that time forgot with a broken bike.
So...the sun came out, the clothes get hung in the trees like a strange Christmas tree display. We borrowed some mole grips from a very helpful English couple who arrived after us and with some creative use of my Leatherman got the cassette off. New spoke in, trued up. Good as new. Hopefully.
I really don't know why we were so worried and miserable.
We now need to find some innertubes and I'm going to buy a cassette tool.

So another 60kms down the road, minus ten in the van and the big hills are getting closer.

I Think Therefore......

....I can safely say we're very tired. Grey day, grey roads, more headwinds, I'm sure some sun would have made a difference. Anyway here we are in Descartes, 59kms later,named after Rene the philosopher. Wonder what the town was called before he supposedly proved the existence of God.
We could have been spending today watching the Tour go over the Col de la Madelaine. Would we swap? err three hours ago probably yes, but now we're showered, fed, wined, coffeed, chocolated and sat down, we're happy again.
Left the tourist trail behind. Strange after seeing bikes all the time, we didn't see a single bike today.
We're on the banks of yet another river, the Creuse this time.

We spent yesterday's rest day mostly resting and sleeping when we weren't resting and eating. In the evening we went for a meal and then to watch the Nocture Spectacular at the château  Didn't expect much but it was really very good, surreal but good. We were led through the grounds by actors and horses and lights and music and....well it was different and a lovely clear starry night. Back to the tent at gone midnight, probably partly why today was so hard.

                                         

From One River to Another

Left the Loire for the Indre and left behind the Loire a Velo bike route. A wonderful thing and judging by the numbers of people using it, very successful.
We see cyclists stopping and going into bars for coffee or beers and have to remind ourselves that we can't do that, with the time that we're away we need to be careful with our day to day expenditure. We are running at 38€ a day on average for food and lodging at the moment which is only just sustainable. Obviously we'd be buying food at home as well but it gives us something to work with.
59kms today at close of play, including a trip to the supermarket which again was on top of a hill. Pork, lentils and double rations of apple pie (reduced for quick sale) sat on the bank of the Indre on the loveliest camp site at Azay le Rideau, 3stars and 7€ a night.

Grey and cool all day till now when the cloud has broken and the evening sun has appeared.

Saumur's here kids

67 dry warm and mostly sunny kms today.
Stopped in the biggest Decathlon we've seen on way out of Angers. bought gas, dry bags to replace damaged ones and some new swimming trunks. I hadn't tried my old ones on and I was in great danger of either being arrested or laughed at as they had a little too much room in all the wrong places.

Rode through a hectic and still lovely Saumur and found a site at Villebernier where we are the only people here. We seem to have found our own private bit of France.

Honey stove came out again to cook curry and coffee. Another long ride tomorrow if our legs are up to it.

                                     

Angers en soleil

Didn't see the tennis.
Found an Irish bar in Angers but it was closed like pretty much all of Angers on a Sunday.
Campsite tv said it was on at three at which time the screen went blank and said encrypted. Damn. Listened on the radio till the rain break then went in the jacuzzi. It eased the pain somewhat.



Take away frites and sausage(one) for tea.
Best weather day so far despite forecast and it being really cold first thing.

Angers en pluie

Short hop (30km) to Angers. Twice round the lake looking for the campsite. Then the heavens opened. Took shelter in the bike shed the site has provided on the touring tents area. By the time it stopped and we got the tent up and organised we had just enough time to get to the supermarket and then cook.
No sightseeing today here. The route today though took us past our first proper vineyard, so we must be getting somewhere even if the weather isn't changing.
This is the most expensive site so far at 16 euro, the most we have paid so far is 11 and the cheapest 8.
But it has a tv room, probably not canal+ though. But is does have free wifi so at worst we can listen to radio commentary.
Forecast for tomorrow is bad, but if we can we'll go into town and look for this mythical Irish bar.
Did a check and tweek of the bikes, there's a bit of play in Sue's front hub but nothing too serious, I hope.

Rabbit and Tennis

A fairly easy 64km today. Weather stayed more or less dry so far but the forecast isn't great still. Strange having people come to talk to you about where we are from and where we are going. One guy at lunch asked if he could pick up the bikes to see how heavy they are. He now thinks we are very brave or mad, and he's a mountain biker.
Bought some freshly made rabbit in cider stew for dinner from the local super, expensive but looks good. The site was in La Possoniere unmanned, you paid in the nearby restaurant, but equipped with a microwave again which was very useful for the stew.

Trying to follow Murray's semi on the kindle from BBC website. It loses a bit of the drama but at least we can keep up. If he wins we'll have find somewhere to watch the final. We should be in Angers so we could find a bar or something. He'll probably lose now I've been planning.

On the Loire

Woke up to sun, but true to form it started to rain before long. Said goodbye to the Nantes Brest canal to look for lunch and to cut across the corner. Did a bit of steep off road which Sue loved..... a lot. Then down the hill into Oudon. 60km today. Site is on the river with wifi and all set up for bikers, with microwave and a marquee for eating in if it's wet. Which it was so that's where we are. But now the sun is shining so we'll get the clothes and dishes washed and hit the town.

Improvement

Started yesterday in the damp and grey. Decided to move and leave Redon for another day. Feeling like a long way to go and we wished the headwind would drop. As the day went on things brightened again and the damp stuff, which was nearly everything, dryed. The canal became more like a river and the scenery more varied. Stopped at Blain and decided to spend two nights here. Frankly we're both tired. 57km done after our shopping trip, so over 300km in the first week and our legs are complaining.

 

Today has gone from sun to rain from one minute to the next. It's made it difficult to get the washing dry and to stop us getting soaked. Miscalculated French lunchtimes so our galettes will have to wait till this evening. Bread cheese and ham for lunch instead.
Wandered around the chateau and it's Templar exibition this afternoon and it was free which was good.

                                                                      

Rain

Woke late to rain. And raining is how it stayed. Persistant drizzle all day, never very heavy but relentless. 48km run to Redon, all the way along the Nantes Brest canal.
It looks like we will follow it all of the way to Nantes, which will mean we will have been on the canal track for some 10 hours and 150 kms. Nice to be traffic free but less interesting, and no uphills or downhills so constant pedalling.








Despite the rain we've managed to stay dry and Sue isn't having problems with cold hands.We have taken over the loo block with drying towels and waterproofs though.
We will decide in the morning whether to stay or go. Redon looks lovely but if the weather is no better we will probably move on.

It looks like I left the UK mains adaper back in the last campsite so we have no way of recharging the camera battery or topping up the reserve battery. Another problem needing a solution.

Nantes Brest Canal

Yesterday started bright but soon turned grey and damp. Had lunch (beans tuna and bread) in  the shelter of a tree. Things brightened in the afternoon as we found a Voie Vert running South. Lovely flat tarmaced surface took us to Ploermel where we raided the Leclerc for steak, stickies and wine.
Back onto the cycleway past a group of older French who looked at us as if we were from another planet, or maybe we are starting to smell a bit.
Picked up the Nantes Brest canal cyclepath, again a lovely surface but no route maps. Came to Roc St Andre with a lovely campsite on the edge of the canal with vintage caravans and tree houses to rent. We'll stay here for couple of nights. Another 58kms done and slightly head of target.
Cycling back to Ploermel in a bit to shop and explore.